Complaining Couple

Complaining Couple

She is still on about the snoring. So much so in fact that she got her own room last night. Well, I’m as relieved as she is, I can tell you that much for nothing. She thinks her sleep was disturbed? I wouldn’t ordinarily say anything about this, but I really feel I’ve been pushed to the limits. It’s a bit sensitive so let’s just say, if Miriam was a man, I’d be suggesting she get her prostate checked. Oh yes, all thro the night, doors banging, toilets flushing, feet slip slapping, bed groaning…. And do I say anything? Of course not, I was raised to have manners.  I am very forgiving of other people’s strange behaviours. Plus I must admit, I have a somewhat contrary problem in that since we got here, I’ve had a few difficulties of my own – I’ve a few bodily functions that aren’t very efficiently, or actually, aren’t working at all. Maybe I’m missing my morning porridge? Or the honey and lemon drink I have every day when I get up first? Or perhaps it’s that I haven’t been having my five a day before lunch, which obviously I do without fail at home. Or it could be my inability to source fresh prune juice in this area? Whatever it is, I’m not going to make a fuss, and I’m just grateful that I’m so open to change and doing new things, and that I’m not inflexible and stuck in my ways. You know, like some people.

The day starts out really wet again and there are more people walking today. What with the number of pelegrinos and the level of mud and flooding, it’s difficult to get into a stride in parts. Mir pushes her way through, passing out people with a brusque nod, and occasional ‘ buen camino’ . Thankfully she doesn’t use her elbows too much.  I hear an English woman remark to her companion that she always lets the ones in a mad rush go past. I wonder has she previously met Miriam?

Our hearts leap at the occasional sound of wheels whirring and bells tinkling. We stand aside to let groups of cyclists past. Invariably they are male and muscly, fit and friendly. The timing has been perfect several times: standing at the pinnacle of a hill we hear the cycle warning and stand into the bank. As the cyclists descend the rough path we stand, heads cocked, and gaze adoringly at the scene ahead; buttocks lifted to ease the strain of the bumpy ride downhill.  Ah, those calf muscles!

We walk alongside a group of school kids for much of the way today. 43 teenagers – my god, who’d be a teacher? They chatter amongst themselves incessantly; occasionally break into song and trying to strike up conversations whenever they can (presumably extra brownie points for practicing their English).

They fire questions at us as we meander along: where are you from? How long have you been walking? Why are you on the camino?

Why am I on the camino? How do I answer that? ……Because I had my heart broken last year and I’m still trying to put myself back together; because I’m going to be 50 this year and I’m really worried I haven’t done enough with my life; because I don’t sleep very well and often get anxious and someone said this would be good for me; because I need constant distractions.

That all sounds so depressing. Let me try that again.

Why am I walking the Camino?

Because I have survived a broken heart, and am proud of how I am putting myself back together;

Because even tho I’m going to be 50 this year, there is life in the old bird yet! I have learnt and understood so much but have so much more to experience;

Because it’s good for me to walk and think;

Because Miriam makes me laugh but doesn’t mind if I need to cry.

And with these more positive thoughts, the sun finally begins to break through the grey sky and we all feel the heat in our bones. I notice my pace and my chin lift ever so slightly and don’t question what lies beneath the change in attitude. It really doesn’t matter, as long as it’s good.

The late afternoon is a glory of warm sun and running river water, and we settle into our accommodation for the night. Only one more day of walking with Mir. We have dinner with Claire and Ciaran and behave like an old married couple, complaining about each other, highlighting each other’s deficits. I know this is a sign of a deep and true friendship and I go to bed smiling, even as she is giving out about my anticipated snoring!